Ummmm...I understand the quest for big waves, but...but....but....are you people IDIOTS? Do you have a death wish? You don't surf during a STORM! If ya do, you deserve to die, a sacrifice to Aqua (god of water in the show "Once on This Island"). They are recommending only "EXPERTS" go in the water....I say if you have a brain, you stay out all together.
Have the sense to come out of the rain....or have the years of pot smoking diminished your brain cells (yeah, yeah, I know it's a stereotype that all surfers smoke weed....whatever)?